To fix a tight armhole on a ready-to-wear kurti, open the side seam and lower the underarm curve by 0.75 to 1.0 inch using a curved tailor's chalk line. If no internal seam allowance remains, insert a matching triangular fabric diamond (locally called a tukka or gusset) into the underarm junction to restore complete arm mobility without altering the chest width.
Ready-to-wear kurtis often look stunning on the hanger but pinch painfully around the armpits the moment you reach forward or drive. Here is how tailors and DIY sewists fix tight armholes cleanly.
Key Specifications & Decision Matrix
| Armhole Tightness Cause | Recommended Fix | Difficulty Level |
|---|---|---|
| Excess Fabric Seam Margin Inside | Open and re-stitch 0.5 inches outward | Easy (10 mins) |
| Armhole Cut Too High / Shallow | Scoop out 0.75 inches from lower curve | Moderate (Darzi) |
| Zero Seam Allowance Left | Insert diamond gusset (tukka) | Expert fix |
Recommended Step-by-Step Procedure
1. Inspect the Inner Seam Allowance
Turn the kurti inside out. If the manufacturer left at least 0.5 inches of fabric, undo the lockstitch and re-sew closer to the edge.
2. Scoop Lower, Never Widen Chest
Only cut fabric from the bottom scoop of the armhole curve; cutting from the side chest will make the shirt bag overly loose.
3. Gusset Technique for Designer Pret
If there is zero margin, take a matching scrap from the hem shortening and stitch a small diamond piece into the armpit. It is completely invisible when arms are down.
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Frequently Asked Questions (Ahem Sawalat)
Kurti ka moda (armhole) tang ho to kaise theek karein?
Baghal ki silai khol kar 1 inch gehraai mein cut karein ya agar kapra na ho to choti si tikki (gusset) laga dein.
Will altering the armhole change the bust fitting?
Not if you only alter the lower curve where the arm connects. Keep the side chest stitch line intact.
Can this be done without a sewing machine?
Yes, opening the inner stitch margin can be hand-sewn with a tight backstitch for an emergency fix.