Before handing an unstitched suit to your tailor, always specify: 1) exact shirt length with chosen heels, 2) neckline depth (never deeper than 6.5 inches for casual wear), 3) double stitching along side chaaks, 4) extra 1.5-inch inner seam allowance for future alterations, and 5) attaching embroidered patches using neat invisible applique (facing) rather than raw heat-cut stitching.
Almost every household in Pakistan has experienced 'darzi heartbreak'—an expensive designer unstitched suit returned with asymmetrical motifs, a suffocatingly tight armhole, or a neckline cut so deep it's unwearable. Here is the 10-point checklist to hand over with every suit.
Key Specifications & Decision Matrix
| Tailoring Zone | Common Darzi Mistake | Mandatory Instruction |
|---|---|---|
| Side Chaaks (Slits) | Single stitch that rips when sitting | Double stitch with reinforced lock at top |
| Embroidered Patti | Stitched flat over raw edge | Turned facing (patti) with invisible hem |
| Inner Seam Margin | Trimmed close to the stitch line | Leave minimum 1.5 inches for letting out |
| Armhole Curve | Cut too tight or diagonal | Follow curved French curve ruler template |
Recommended Step-by-Step Procedure
1. Always Provide a Well-Fitting Sample Kurti
Never let the tailor rely on year-old notebook scribbles. Provide a recent garment that fits your current body shape perfectly.
2. Pin the Neckline Depth Yourself
Take a safety pin and mark the maximum depth you are comfortable with on the sample kurti.
3. Instruct Them to Pre-Cut Resham Loops
Ask the tailor to secure embroidery ends before cutting into borders so threads don't unravel after first wash.
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Frequently Asked Questions (Ahem Sawalat)
Darzi ko suit dete waqt kya batein batani chahiyein?
Shirt ki lambai, gala kitna gehra ho, chaaks par double silai, aur andar 1.5 inch kapra chorne ki takeed lazmi karein.
Why do tailor-made trousers twist while walking?
A twisting trouser leg means the tailor cut the cloth off the straight grainline (kani) to save fabric scraps. Always insist on straight grain cutting.
Should asthar (lining) be given pre-washed?
Yes! Never give unwashed cotton asthar to a tailor; if it shrinks after stitching, it will crumple your outer shirt permanently.